Tag: india

Exploring the Rat Temple in Bikaner and other Unique Cultural Experiences

March 9, 2025

Rat Temple and Local Fair


Traveling in India never ceased to surprise us with its diversity in languages, food, and beliefs rooted in thousands of years of history and customs. One example of a remarkable story and a highlight of our journey was visiting the Rat Temple in Bikaner. In this temple, rats are considered holy and revered.


The origin of the Rat Temple dates back to the fourteenth century. According to legend, the Goddess Karni Mata lost her youngest son, Lakhan, who drowned. In her grief, the Goddess commanded Yama, the god of death, to bring Lakhan back to life. Yama, however, explained that he could not do so but that Karni Mata (an incarnation of Durga, the Goddess of war, power, and protection) could restore her son’s life. Karni Mata decreed that her family would be reincarnated as rats.

Today, around six hundred families claim to be descendants of Karni Mata. These descendants maintain the temple, clean up after the rats, and prepare food for them, often sharing meals in their presence.

To enter the temple and enjoy the experience of 20,000 black rats running freely, you must be barefoot, as some rats may even scurry over your feet. Upon entering, we removed our shoes and felt the rats scampering across our toes. This experience is certainly not for the faint-hearted! A deep sense of emotion ripples through the worshippers when they spot an albino rat, which is believed to bring good luck. Kathy spoke with several visitors who had made the trip, hoping to see a white rat to enhance their fortune. Unfortunately, on the day we visited, we didn’t see an albino rat or anyone else. We stepped outside the temple for refreshments and regained our sense of reality.

Our next stop left a deep impression on me. Our guide, Shyaam, took us to a local festival with arts and crafts, Rajasthani foods, and entertainment. Although the festival’s nature was familiar and similar to North America’s, the begging scene that enveloped us shocked me. Beggars were prevalent, and Westerners present were their primary focus.

The most grotesque and upsetting memory that I have is of a skinny, undernourished boy of maybe ten years of age who had only one leg and was running after me on his two hands and his one leg like a spider, reaching with one hand to me begging for anything. I was unable to escape him. His tenacity forced me to leave the venue and go to the parking lot before he would leave me alone. He chased me from the festival!

I felt sick to my stomach and dispirited to see this deformed beggar. I read about the maiming of children by the begging mafia in India who steal children and maim them to make them more profitable in begging, but seeing one was awful. It was the most disturbing experience that I had in India. Although I read Rohinton Mistry’s Fine Balance and we had gone to see the Slumdog Millionaire film before we went to India, seeing the slums and the beggar children in real-time was shocking. Seeing this poor, deprived child made me think about the unfortunate circumstances that led to his life in begging.


Still, I knew that despite being a tough moral choice, giving to beggars inevitably meant being swarmed, overwhelmed, and in danger of physical harm in such crowded situations (we had such experience in Asia).


When driving, Shyaam delighted us with his discussion of the unique aspects of Indian culture. On our drives, he explained to us the caste system of India, which he was proud of. He was a Singh, implying the second highest caste: the warriors and rulers. Military service ran in his family. Caste, we learned, does not guarantee wealth or even education, but it imparts status. Shyaam was a tour guide and lived a modest life. He explained Brahmins were priests and teachers, comprising the highest caste. Next to the warriors were the farmers, traders, and merchants, followed by the laborers. The Dalits were outcasts, the street sweepers (and not part of the caste system).

Interestingly, India’s history includes a prime minister who was a Dalit, and many merchant classes have become quite wealthy. I was initially unsure about the meaning of the caste system, especially since individuals from various backgrounds could become prime ministers or pursue higher education, leading to what we might describe as an upper-class lifestyle filled with money and possessions. We observed that the caste system was more apparent in the North of India, where there are more Hindus, compared to Chennai or Tamil Nadu, which has a more diverse population that includes non-Hindus.

We had an interesting discussion with our guide about ultrasounds for pregnant women, which Shyaam explained can be dangerous for women. I was about to debate with him when Kathy quietly suggested that I stay silent on the topic. I understood that in India, there is a preference for boys because they provide support to the older generations, benefit from a dowry when they marry, and light their parents’ funeral pyres. Having a boy ensures that the family name continues.

I’ve read that there is a worsening gender imbalance in India. In 1994, a law was passed to address this issue; the law discourages prenatal sex determination, monitors these procedures, and prevents the gender imbalance that could lead to a shortage of women for marriageable men. The murder of baby girls has become an ethical concern in India, according to articles I’ve come across

Jainism and the Ranakpur Temple: Understanding the Principles

March 7, 2025


During our journey from Jaisalmer to Udaipur in Rajasthan, India, we stopped to visit a Jain temple in Ranakpur. After a long walk, we arrived at the temple’s entrance. Upon entry, the building’s dress code mandated covered knees and shoulders. Despite the temperature being in the upper 30s Celsius outside, the dress code prohibited sleeveless shirts. Fortunately, we were well-prepared to meet this requirement since we always wore long-sleeved shirts and pants while traveling.


Temple entry required removing all leather items, such as wallets and belts. Jain temples prohibit leather because producing it involves killing animals, directly contradicting the core Jain principle of “Ahimsa,” or non-violence. The temple provided lockers for visitors to store their items, and we had to improvise to keep our pants up after removing our belts.


At the entrance, we saw a sign advising women not to visit the temple while menstruating. This caught my attention, so I decided to research the source of this custom online. A social media comment explained, “In India, people are not allowed to visit a temple unbathed or in dirty or unwashed clothes.” Similarly, temple authorities prohibit any bleeding man or woman from entering, to maintain the temple’s purity and hygiene.


People have practiced Jainism, an ancient religion with more than five million followers for over five thousand years. It is based on the principle of peaceful coexistence and offers guidelines for living harmoniously with others. I was ready to become a follower. Unlike many other religions, Jainism does not worship a God; its followers revere the Tirthankaras. Jainism admires the 24 Tirthankaras—enlightened teachers or saints—for their teachings and wisdom, but does not worship them. They have achieved liberation from the endless cycle of birth and death.

A vegetarian diet is essential for all Jains, reflecting the core principle of non-violence or non-injury. Jains are very conscientious about their food choices. For example, they avoid root vegetables, such as potatoes, because harvesting them results in the death of the entire plant. Many Jains also operate animal shelters throughout India, showcasing their commitment to this principle.


We learned that the Ranakpur Temple is one of the largest and most significant temples in Jain culture, recognized as one of the five most sacred sites for Jains. Remarkably, a dream inspired Darna Shah, a local Jain businessman, to build the temple in the fifteenth century. Of the renowned artists and sculptors he invited to submit designs for the temple, architect Deepak presented a plan that profoundly impressed Darna. Deepak promised to create a temple based on Darna’s vision. The king of the province provided land for the temple and suggested building a town near the temple, which has become Ranakpur.

The temple covers an area of nearly 48,000 square feet. It includes 29 halls and 80 domes, all supported by 1,444 intricately carved marble pillars, each uniquely designed. Four distinct doorways lead into its chambers. These chambers ultimately guide visitors to the main hall, where the statue of Adinath, the first spiritual leader of the Jains, is located. Remarkably, you will arrive in the central courtyard regardless of which of the four entranceways you choose.


The temple’s architecture is so well-designed that artificial lighting is unnecessary; natural sunlight illuminates the entire building. Construction began in 1389 and finished in 1458. The numerous openings and high ceilings kept the air inside significantly cooler than the scorching temperatures outside during our visit.

Exploring the Thar Desert: A Unique Rajasthan Adventure

March 6, 2025

While driving through the Thar Desert, the temperature soared into the upper 40s Celsius. Despite the heat during our travels in Rajasthan, our trip was filled with unique experiences, including an Ayurvedic massage, a camel ride in the desert, and accommodation in a Maharaja’s palace.

Many Maharajas lost their wealth and status after India gained independence, forcing them to find new ways to make a living. Many were left with nothing but their palaces, which they transformed into hotels. Our room in one of these palaces had an authentic atmosphere characterized by heavy curtains to keep the heat and noise out, aging period furniture, and a slightly musty smell. It was huge by North American standards. The luxurious palace made us feel important while we stayed there.

We had arranged for an Ayurvedic massage, advertised in the palace’s lobby, to be performed in our hotel room. Ayurveda, a practice that has been around for over five thousand years, focuses on balancing the body and mind. Practitioners use hot oils to promote healing and restore imbalances, and we were eager to experience it.

Two young therapists arrived—one woman and one man. Their English was limited, but they instructed me to lie on one bed and undress to my shorts, while Kathy undressed to her bra and shorts on the other bed. The therapists, dressed in business attire, covered our faces with towels before opening massive suitcases filled with various oils.

The room was quiet, and the warm oils, infused with fragrant herbs, helped us relax. I remembered a massage I experienced in Thailand, which ended with painful toe pulls. In contrast, the Ayurvedic massage was incredibly soothing.

The therapists advised to remain on the bed after the massage to allow the oils to seep into our skin until they dried and removed toxins. We had no trouble relaxing further; we were half-asleep by that point. After an hour of blissful peace, we got up to explore Jaisalmer (population 65,000 in 2011, 90% Hindu).

Walking around the city was challenging due to the narrow streets and roaming cows. At one point, a group of cows blocked Kathy as she tried to navigate her way. Many towns in India have laws against cows wandering freely, but Jaisalmer is an exception, marking our first encounter with numerous cows meandering about. (Cows are considered sacred by Hindus).

It was hard not to feel sorry for the cows, many of whom appeared half-starved and abandoned. I learned that volunteer veterinarian groups from overseas come to India to trim the cows’ hooves, allowing them to walk more comfortably. We often saw people feeding the cows before having their meals in the mornings. In the evenings, the cows usually rested or slept at the edges of the streets, having nowhere else to go.

On our way back to the hotel, we met an Indian man from Britain who expressed great disappointment in visiting his hometown. Contrary to his childhood experience, he found Jaisalmer to be backward and dirty. While we accepted what we saw as the norm, he wished the local government had done a better job in the city.

Our overnight camel safari in the desert began the following day. Due to the camels’ unique characteristics, we were advised to wear long pants to prevent irritation from their swaying and straw-like hair. Sunglasses and face coverings were also recommended in case of a sandstorm.

The safari started with a challenge: how do you get on a camel? We learned that when the camel is seated on all fours, one should climb up onto the saddle attached to its hump and lean back to avoid falling forward when the camel stands up, starting on its hind legs.

We began our camel trip on the outskirts of Jaisalmer, where we felt strange riding a camel. The roads were busy with motorcycles, trucks, bicycles, and two-wheeled camel carts with used airplane tires. People used camels as work animals. I initially thought I needed to control the camel in the traffic, but I quickly learned that this was not the case—camels listen only to their masters. In addition, our camels seemed to know exactly where to go.

Our leader walked beside his camel until we left the town and entered the desert. My camel followed the guide, a Raika tribesman. Kathy rode behind me, followed by two tribesmen and three additional camels carrying our gear.

The desert gradually enveloped us, and we continued riding in the heat until the leader suddenly stopped and unfolded a small prayer rug for himself to kneel and pray on. We also dismounted and stretched our legs to relieve any stiffness. Resuming the trip, we knew how to mount the camels.

At our camp, a couple of tribesmen set up an open-front tent equipped with cots and a small toilet tent for us. They also erected a collapsible table with chairs while the cook prepared our meals a short distance from our camp.

The temperature dropped significantly after sunset. The cook prepared mouth-watering curries for us, and we finished our meal with hot chai tea infused with cloves, cinnamon, and cardamom. A spectacular view of millions of stars in the sky appeared when darkness had fully descended.

Suddenly, out of nowhere, a Gypsy family appeared with musical instruments. They began to play music next to our campfire, which was fueled by camel dung. The young girls started dancing in flowing, gold-braided dresses while their parents played unique musical instruments I had never seen before. The entire Gypsy family was dressed in colorful embroidered shirts and skirts, with the father wearing a turban on his head.

After the performance, we relaxed on our cots, gazing at the countless stars outside our open tent. I found myself wondering if the Gypsies were simply nomadic people who happened to see us in the desert or if, more likely, the organizers of our tour had arranged for them to perform for us.

Before drifting off to sleep, I thought about how majestic the camels were, with their slow, ambling gait. I also reflected on the Raikas, a local tribe in Rajasthan, who are actively working to protect the diminishing number of camels. Thanks to their advocacy, the government declared the camel the state animal of Rajasthan in 2014.

Entertainment at night in the desert.

Exploring Delhi: A Day in India’s Bustling Capital

January 19, 2025


We flew to Delhi, where we spent one day—quite an introduction to India! Our hotel was outside of Delhi’s center, accessible by subway. Shyaam, our guide, led us on a subway journey to Old Delhi’s historical sites and bustling market. We followed Shyaam through the crowded streets. The heat made me wipe the sweat from my face. It felt as if we walked a long way, only to discover that the distance covered was only a few blocks.

Rubbernecking to see the small stores and fighting the jostle of people was tiresome. After a while, we were ready for a snack and looked longingly at the street vendors with their steaming foods. Shyaam cautioned us about buying from a street vendor and suggested that we wait for the next round of freshly cooked food to be ready to eat rather than take the already prepared food in bowls on a counter along the street full of flies munching on the food. So we waited ten minutes for the next round of cooking. It was worth the wait—it was delicious; I think we had chunks of lamb with spices I was unfamiliar with.


The atmosphere in that part of town differed from what I have ever experienced. Besides the teeming crowds, with the temperature hovering in the upper thirties Celsius, the smell of spices permeating the air was powerful. In this district, spice store after spice store with hundreds of spices competed for attention with fancy exhibit boxes containing almost every spice imaginable: mustard seeds, coriander, garam masala, and others. A dispute unexpectedly flared up outside a spice stand between a customer and the store owner. Almost immediately, a large crowd gathered, and yelling started. We were made acutely aware of our vulnerability and the potential for sudden violence by the crowd’s sudden outburst and rapid gathering. I told Kathy we should just move on and leave the crowded sidewalk before violence broke out.

Among the sites Shyaam took us was the Jama Masjid, the oldest mosque in India. A wall surrounded the entire mosque complex, with a football-field-sized plaza in front of the mosque, large enough to hold 25,000 people. At the entrance gate, they directed us to take off our shoes and leave them on the steps leading up to the mosque, next to hundreds of others’ shoes on the steps. I was wearing my good walking shoes and was nervous about leaving them on the steps, but we had no choice; I thought of someone just coming out of the mosque and taking my shoes by accident.

Jama Masjid

But taking off our shoes was only part of what they required. They also gave us a gown to wear over our street clothes. Inside the complex, children played and ran around in the plaza, and adults walked around in gowns. The courtyard seemed like a vast, paved urban park without trees and greenery. Aside from the gowns, it could have been anywhere.

The Jama Masjid is like other mosques we have seen; it is a large space with the women’s quarter separated upstairs. The mosque was completed in the sixteenth century in the old city. The huge mosque in Casablanca, the Hassan II, is like this one, except it has no walls around the large plaza outside and was built recently (finished in 1993). I did not get the religious vibes here that I felt visiting the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, perhaps because I am a Catholic and not a Muslim. We left the mosque, and I found my shoes, which I had left outside.


Following our visit to Jama Masjid, Shyaam guided us to Sheeshganj Gurudwara, one of Delhi’s nine historic Sikh temples (the name means “gateway to the guru” in Punjabi). Unlike the mosque, worshippers, women, and men gathered together on the floor in the principal room. As part of the temple’s mission, a women’s auxiliary made naan bread in a small side room to feed people experiencing poverty. They were working quietly, without speaking, a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle outside. They invited Kathy to sit on the floor and join them in making naan. She did it for a while to learn how to make naan, which was more challenging than it looked.


Leaving the Gurudwara, we took Delhi’s spotless subway to Connaught Place, the center of New Delhi. Shyaam escorted us onto the subway train, gave us directions on how to return to our hotel using the subway, and left us to explore. Connaught Place differed from Old Delhi. It was a large circular park with benches on a grassy field. Seven major roads radiated from the perimeter into the urban fabric of New Delhi. Its street-level stores and mid-rise office buildings around the circle reminded me of North American cities. Unlike in Old Delhi, the streets were uncrowded, and the stores were spacious.


Feeling confident in our navigational abilities, we took the subway back to our hotel. I found the subway extremely clean, although crowded. Upon entering a station, all passengers underwent a security check similar to those in airports: a metal detector check and a baggage check. They allowed no food or drink. This rule and its enforcement ensured cleanliness. It was impressive. We got off at the right subway stop; however, with no idea of the geography and, I guess, not having paid enough attention to our surroundings when Shyaam had accompanied us downtown, we had no idea whether to go left or right when we got off and stood there like the lost tourists we were. Luckily, many Delhi residents speak English, and a very kind man helped us find our hotel. This gentleman’s helpfulness, in retrospect, did not surprise us, as we have found in our travels that Indians are friendly people.

Exploring Panjim and Old Goa’s World Heritage Sites

January 2, 2025


Arriving in Panjim, the capital of Goa, we made our way to our small hotel in the downtown area. Our contact there arranged a driver to go sightseeing.


The next day, the driver took us to Old Goa, where UNESCO declared a large area as a World Heritage Site in 1986. Sultanates ruled old Goa, founded in the fifteenth century on the banks of the Mandavi River until the Portuguese captured it in 1510. The Portuguese ran their colony from Old Goa until they moved the viceroy’s residence to Panjim in 1759. During their stay, the Portuguese had built several Catholic churches in and around Old Goa. With the viceroy’s departure, Old Goa’s religious significance diminished.

We walked over to the UNESCO World Heritage Site, which contains seven historical churches, one in ruins and the others in different stages of renovation. The builders constructed the churches in the Baroque architectural style. Although we found this site significant, it is less interesting architecturally. We have seen several more interesting World Heritage Sites in India (thirty-eight such sites in India).


Half a day spent wandering the buildings was adequate for us. It was a hot day with temperatures in the thirties (over 100 degrees Fahrenheit). We walked with our water bottles in the sun on the heritage site’s grassy field.

I recommend seeing the Basilica of Born Jesus on this World Heritage Site. It is famous for containing the remains of St. Francis Xavier, founder of the Jesuit Order, and associated artifacts, including his casket.


The other edifice we enjoyed was the Chapel of St. Catherine, a small building needing renovations but uncrowded and surrounded by vegetation providing welcome shade. Alfonso de Albuquerque built this chapel when he took possession of Goa in 1510 on Saint Catherine’s Day (November 25th). We took a hydration break at a small kiosk and called our driver for the return trip.


While heading back to Panjim, approximately ten kilometers down the road, the driver paused to grab a jacket upon getting a phone call. He said the police were monitoring taxi drivers further up the road, and the law required drivers to wear a formal dress or pay a hefty fine. I thought this regulation concerned creating a professional image for tourists.

According to the driver, in Goa, people view being a police officer as rewarding due to their ability to stop and search individuals for any reason. And people will negotiate and pay cash to avoid being fined. Applicants to the police force will pay bribes to get an interview. Families join to raise money for a family member who, if successful in becoming a police officer, supports the entire family

We walked around Panjim, which has a population of about 100,000. It has a European feel, with low-rise buildings and curvy streets. We enjoyed the many small stores lining the streets and stopped by an optometrist whose prices were low compared to prices in Canada. They offered us a plan whereby we gave them our prescriptions, and they would fill them at any time at a low cost for an annual fee. We considered it but decided against it, thinking of the time it would take to get glasses mailed to us. Shoppers and passersby were helpful with directions to the Bishop’s Palace; however, the impressive, two-story building was closed on our arrival.

The next day, we visited a beach, a major tourist attraction in Goa. Thinking an hour would get the smell and atmosphere of the beach; we told the driver to wait. Upon stepping onto the sandy beach, hawkers surrounded us, trying to rent umbrellas, sell refreshments, and offer massages. I struggled to shake them off without resorting to discourtesy. It was not a pleasant experience. Their presence stemmed from business opportunities.

Understanding the language, I listened to the Russian tourists on the beach availing themselves of the full range of services. Also noticeable were the women in long sarees, which they wore into the water with their children. An early bedtime preceded our 4:30 AM flight. My anxiety grew with each passing moment as the cab failed to arrive. I called the driver several times and was told he was on the way. He explained his tardiness one hour late: the airport was only 30 minutes away, and a few flights meant no rush. He was right, and we boarded Qatar Airways to Doha and Washington, DC, connecting with a United Airways flight to Ottawa. We arrived on the same day as the day we left, even though we had twenty hours of flying time with five hours’ waiting time in between flights.